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Exfoliation is one of the fastest ways to get glowy, smooth skin — and one of the fastest ways to destroy your barrier when overdone. The key is choosing the right kind, at the right frequency, for your skin type.
The three main types
- AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) — glycolic, lactic, mandelic. Water-soluble. Work on the surface. Best for dullness, dark spots, dryness.
- BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) — salicylic acid. Oil-soluble. Penetrate into pores. Best for oily, congested, acne-prone skin.
- PHAs (poly hydroxy acids) — gluconolactone, lactobionic acid. Gentler, larger molecules, don't penetrate as deeply. Best for sensitive or beginner skin.
- Enzymatic exfoliants — papain, bromelain, rice enzymes. Gentle 'nibble' effect; brilliant for reactive skin.
- Physical scrubs — small beads or grains. Use rarely, if ever; better swapped for a chemical option.
Who each type is for
- Dry / dull skin — lactic acid, mandelic acid, PHAs.
- Oily / acne-prone — salicylic acid (BHA) 2–3 times a week.
- Combination — mandelic, lactic or a low-strength AHA/BHA blend.
- Sensitive / reactive — PHAs or enzymatic exfoliants only, 1–2 times a week.
- Mature skin — lactic acid and gentle glycolic; combine with barrier support.
- Hyperpigmentation-prone — mandelic and azelaic (technically a dicarboxylic acid, but exfoliates gently).
Who should avoid or minimise exfoliation
- Anyone with active eczema, dermatitis or open breakouts.
- Anyone with a compromised barrier (stinging, redness, tightness, flakiness).
- During or immediately after a retinoid ramp-up.
- For at least a week after in-clinic peels, laser or microneedling — follow your practitioner's advice.
- Pregnancy — low-strength lactic and glycolic are generally considered safe, but check with your doctor before adding anything new.
How and when to use
- Evening routine only. Never before sun exposure.
- After cleansing, on dry or damp skin (follow product instructions).
- Start at 1–2 times a week for 3–4 weeks; increase only if skin stays happy.
- Never combine with retinoids the same night.
- Always follow with hydrating and barrier-supporting layers.
- Wear SPF 50 the next morning — non-negotiable.
Browse Litsy's Korean exfoliants — from gentle PHA toners to salicylic ampoules — with detailed guidance on how often to use each.
